Keenawaii's Kitchen - Queen Charlotte

We were lucky enough to get a booking for lunch at Keenawaii's Kitchen. Her roe on kelp was very interesting, the smoked salmon was delicous, and her fresh salmon was cooked to perfection. The fresh huckleberries in the coleslaw were delicious. The highlight, though, was watching 18-20 eagles, 2 osprey and some ravens fighting over the salmon skeleton right outside the window - an amazing show while we ate our absolutely delicious meal. Thank you very much, Roberta Olsen.

Really good Haida traditional food with lots of little tidbits to taste. All homemade, caught or foraged by the Chef Roberta herself or her family.

This was featured on a Canadian series called "Canada: Over the Edge" which is largely an aerial view of various parts of Canada. Keenawaii's dinner was presented and I was intrigued: First Nation dishes using local ingredients. The end result was marvellous. Nothing was exceedingly challenging; lots of seafood items; served by her teenaged granddaughters, I believe; great company of over a dozen other travellers seated at the communal long table looking out at Hecate Strait (whales surfacing and eagles gathering). The facility can be contacted only by phone. We awaited the final preparations seated on her front lawn watching the light dim slightly - had a leisurely meal - you pay in cash only (as far as I'm aware) and we still had plenty of time the drive the short distance back to the BC Ferries terminal and catch the late ferry back to the Mainland. I had actually been concerned that the seafood might sit poorly in my typically queasy stomach on the crossing but there was no problem at all from either the food or the ship's motion.This was an exceedingly special memory of our overall superb time we had in Haida Gwaii.

This is a very different kind of dining experience, and one you won't forget. The dining room is in fact a room in your host's beautiful oceanfront home. Authentic Haida art of all kinds is displayed throughout, along with a photo history of the area.We were greeted with four appetizers lovingly assembled on our plates before us, all of them locally caught, cured or gathered. Every bite was a sensational delight, and our lovely host described each in detail, while regaling us with the challenges involved in obtaining them. When it was time for the main course, we couldn't have been prepared for the variety of local delicacies she offered up. Halibut, crab, smoked salmon, herring roe on kelp, with perfectly selected condiments, as well as potatoes, rice and veggies. We were stuffed, but we both didn't feel uncomfortable, as the food was loaded with so many clean nutrients, even our bodies enjoyed the meal, not just our taste buds. Desert was a lovely finalé, served with a nettle tea, that went perfectly with the desert, and seems to help it all settle in nicely. An absolute "must do" on your trip to these magical islands.

First things first, Keenawaii’s Kitchen is not a restaurant: it is a culinary tour de force of traditional Haida cuisine in a very traditional space. You are served a fantastic meal by Roberta Olsen – Keenawaii – and her family. Every dish, from start to finish, is lovingly prepared from scratch. It’s very easy to tell when someone loves what they do or if they’re just going through the motions. Keenawaii loves to cook and she loves to entertain: the value of the cumulative experience is what every traveler should take with them after they’ve dined here.The setting is second to none. You are seated in Roberta’s home at a large table, ocean-front, in a room adorned and alive with culture: beautiful Haida artwork lines the walls, giving the attentive visitor a sort of visual history of the area. Keenawaii, ever the consummate host, takes the time to explain many of the pieces to further contextualize and enrich the overall experience. We were also greeted by Roberta’s grandchildren – they sung and performed traditional Haida songs prior to the meal service. You really cannot beat this experience.As guests at Keenawaii’s, you are treated to a multi-course traditional Haida meal. Round one features a variety of traditional dried foods, beautifully presented on a sea shell: dried seaweed; dried K’aaw (herring roe on kelp), dried smoked salmon, fried bread (NOT bannock! There is a clear difference between the two); and an octopus ball. Round two features traditional seafood chowder lightly drizzled with a bit of oolichan oil. The third course was, for all intents and purposes the main event: halibut (cooked a couple of different ways); smoked sockeye salmon (the best!); herring roe on kelp; local deer and local vegitables. The meal was filling, but one must always leave room for dessert – homemade berry pie and tea. You leave full – very satisfied – in a good way.I mentioned at the start of this review that what people should take away from Keenawaii’s Kitchen is an unforgettable cultural experience. The visual history; the song and dance and the beautifully prepared local food all come together in a wonderful synthesis of culture-education-deliciousness. After all, for Keenawaii, food is much more than a means to an end (a full stomach). It also functions as a tool for learning about a people’s history, culture and traditions. So, the meal – its preparation and presentation – is all meticulously planned. It’s easy to see why she’s hosted some pretty significant people, including international dignitaries.When visiting Haida Gwaii, Keenawaii’s Kitchen is a “must do,” especially if one wants an authentic Haida culinary experience. Everything is locally caught, grown or sourced. Surprisingly, no other eatery on island offers such an experience (they’re either your run-of-the-mill western cuisine or hoity-toity fusion food like at the Haida House). The warm welcome you receive upon walking in the door, and the amazing food – just cannot be beat.FOOD: 5/5SERVICE: 5/5VALUE: 5/5RECOMMENDATION: Yes. Just remember that advanced reservations are required!