Forte Mace - LA SPEZIA

Ristorante Forte Mace’ sits high above the Gulf of La Spezia, tucked in the hill side. Built in 1889, the fort provided land defense for the entire region. The fort was in total disrepair when purchased 14 years ago by the present owners. The have turned it into an extraordinary family restaurant, in a unique location. The son of the family, business manager for the restaurant, speaks some English and was able to guide us through our meal. We started by ordering delicious local wines and working our way through the extraordinary menu, beginning with the Antipasto Desgustazione. Each taste was unique and special. The Cipolline (baby onions) in a slightly sweet sauce, the fresh anchovies and the Torta di faro (a hearty kind of grain) were especially memorable. The Bruschetta al lardo was amazing, soft and buttery. For the pasta course I ordered Pansotti con salsa di noci, which were lovely fresh little stuffed pastas in a subtle and soft nut sauce. Amazingly delicate. The gnocchi di farina di castagne (chestnut flour) was really surprising and light, as was the gnocchi with red radicchio. I love the slightly bitter taste and burnt colour that the radicchio adds. For Secondi Piatti I had the Tagliata con scaglie di grana e rucola. Thin slices of rare beef, mounded with shavings of Parmesan cheese on a bed of arugula. The perfect combination and incredibly delicious. The Coniglio fritto con melanzane grigliate, little fried pieces of rabbit with grilled eggplant, was light and marvelous. By the time that we had eaten all of these courses, there was very little room for Dolce. However, the owners had especially made a nut torte, so I willingly had a bit – light and airy, it was the perfect way to end the meal. Well, not quite the end. When we found that the grandmother of the family makes the limoncello, we knew that we wanted to cap off the meal with a glass (or two). This is more than just a little family restaurant. The daughter and her mother do most of the cooking and we saw a sign for the Italian Cooking Academy on the wall. They serve the specialities of the Ligurian coast and do it with grace and symplicity. The son does the business side and was our host for the afternoon since he was able to speak English. This is a family that has poured their hearts into creating a unique experience for everyone who comes there. This was more than a meal. We were welcomed into their world and we felt incredibly privileged to be there with them.